At my recent second-hand bookstall, someone dropped off a box of cookery books from the 1970s. They were too musty to try to sell for a decent price – please please don’t store your old books anywhere damp! So I put these ones out for 50p, saying to people that they could look through them and make a note of any of the recipes they might like to try, before throwing them away.Afterwards I had a look the unsold ones, on the way to the bin, and was astonished at the difference between then and now. There was so much dairy: cream in every sauce, and sometimes cheese as well; whipped cream on anything sweet; and eggs everywhere – one cake required nine! Far more sugar and deep fat frying, and sauces on everything. Fondue was cool. Curries were still made with curry powder and tomato purée reigned supreme. Vegetables were boiled, not steamed, and the water used for soups – good idea, that. There was also an assumption that you would make your own pastry and pizza bases (pizza being a novelty), which again was probably better in terms of taste and lack of additives. Very little was on offer for vegetarians, of course. Many of the recipes were very elaborate and some included diagrams to show how to prepare and fold the pastry, or cut the vegetables, or decorate the cake.
It wasn’t just the recipes that were from an era with different expectations. One book gave the full guidance on how to ‘entertain’, including inviting your guests (by post, mark as RSVP, and telephone a couple of days in advance if you haven’t heard), seating arrangements, how to fold your linen napkins and lay out your cutlery correctly, catering for vegetarians by providing salad or something with eggs, a note on using your hostess trolley to best advantage, and tips for overnight stays such as asking whether your guests would like breakfast in bed ‘or to come down’.
So then I thought I’d take a trip back in time and cook one of the few vegetarian recipes I found. Bean goulash – the kind of thing I cooked in the 1980s, although I had to leave out the tomato purée.
It was completely inedible.
